I have mentioned a couple times how calling a dog off sit or place may develop a creeper. Let's take my dog Hazel as an example.
Before I knew about The Wildrose Way, I felt confident in what I was doing with my dog Hazel, but I didn't realize the bad habits I was developing. Although Hazel won't be taking part in any hunting, I still incorporate many of the Wildrose laws in hopes of developing a rock solid family member. One of Hazel's favorite games is hide-and-seek. I will send her to her kennel (the first time or two she hesitates, then once she realizes the game we are playing, she runs there gladly) and go find a hiding spot. When I was well hid, I would call out her name or squeak one of her toys I would have with me. Sometimes she would find me right away and other times it would take her a while, but she would always find me. We would do this 5 or 6 times and she absolutely loves this.
Is it bad to play games with my dog? Absolutely not. I don't exactly mind that she has a creeping habit either. Every once in a while I will send Hazel to her place or to her kennel, just to test her obedience and keep her on her toes. There are times I will make her stay for an extended period of time such as when friends are over or if she's been doing things she shouldn't be doing. After a while, I forget I sent Hazel to her kennel, and before I know it, she is right up in my lap with a toy ready to play fetch. I swear she has some type of special power or something, because she randomly appears when I never even saw her move! There are times I will catch her though and she slowly creeps out of her kennel towards me. First she'll take a step and lie back down. Then she'll take a few more steps and lie down. Each time she is doing this, she is testing me to see 1 - if I notice and 2 - if she'll get in trouble. Although cute to see her creep around, this is something I absolutely do NOT want to see in Jack. Remember: never call your dog off sit, stay, or place; always go to where he is and bring him on heel.
10-12 Weeks
Jack is now 12 weeks old, about a week away from 3 months. At this stage, we are working a lot on heel, sit, and staying at sit until told to move. Jack is a lot more familiar with heel and I will now give collar corrections as he moves out of place. While on heel, Jack is not allowed to sniff the ground; this is a distraction and the dog is not learning what he is supposed to. As Jack's nose goes to the ground, I do a very small, gentle tug upwards on the lead to keep his nose off the ground. Let me talk a bit about the lead.
The lead I use is a British slip lead. Don't know what it is? Google it. The traditional collar and snap lead will not work, although Jack does wear a collar due to city ordinances. A British slip lead is preferred (or a choke chain will do the same) because when it is placed correctly, it mimics the bite of the pack leader. The way you place your lead depends on the side you want your dog to be when heeling. Remember: from the beginning choose one side and stick with it where your pup will be while on heel. It's hard enough to walk around a marsh with decoys, your gun, and all that extra weight; you don't want a dog criss-crossing your path. If you choose to have your dog on your left (I do), you will place the lead over the dog's head in the shape of a "P". If you have your dog on your right, place the lead over the dog's head in the shape of a "q". When placed correctly and the collar is pulled on, the collar tightens then loosens immediately, like the bite of the pack leader. If placed incorrectly, the collar tightens and does not loosen. You lose the desired effect.
While working on heel, I am teaching Jack to sit every time I stop. As I stop, I pull up gently on the collar. This causes a slight discomfort to the pup and he sits down. As soon as he sits, I release the pressure. He soon learns that when I stop, something uncomfortable is going to happen, so he sits right away. Now at 12 weeks, Jack sits almost immediately when I stop, but it has been a struggle getting there.
As Jack has been better at sitting, I have begun to teach him that sit means stay until told otherwise. To begin, while Jack is on sit I keep the lead in hand and I take one step in front of Jack, facing him. The first few times, he will get up. When he does this, again gently lift the lead until he sits back down. Practice going back to him, back away from him, back to him, etc. until he has mastered it from here. Next (probably a couple days later), practice taking a step to either side. Before you know it (Jack picked up rather quick on this), your dog will stay sitting.
Two things to watch out for here. One: very rarely, if ever, call your dog to you off of sit. Again this can develop a creeper (a post coming soon on this). Two: when returning to get your dog, don't walk straight to the dog, this will make him want to stand up to greet you. Walk wide of the dog beginning a small circle, then hooking or circling back up to the appropriate side to call him off sit into heel.
Please feel free to comment and ask any questions or give any requests for what you'd like to know or see. I hope to start doing videos soon and to post more pictures.
The lead I use is a British slip lead. Don't know what it is? Google it. The traditional collar and snap lead will not work, although Jack does wear a collar due to city ordinances. A British slip lead is preferred (or a choke chain will do the same) because when it is placed correctly, it mimics the bite of the pack leader. The way you place your lead depends on the side you want your dog to be when heeling. Remember: from the beginning choose one side and stick with it where your pup will be while on heel. It's hard enough to walk around a marsh with decoys, your gun, and all that extra weight; you don't want a dog criss-crossing your path. If you choose to have your dog on your left (I do), you will place the lead over the dog's head in the shape of a "P". If you have your dog on your right, place the lead over the dog's head in the shape of a "q". When placed correctly and the collar is pulled on, the collar tightens then loosens immediately, like the bite of the pack leader. If placed incorrectly, the collar tightens and does not loosen. You lose the desired effect.
While working on heel, I am teaching Jack to sit every time I stop. As I stop, I pull up gently on the collar. This causes a slight discomfort to the pup and he sits down. As soon as he sits, I release the pressure. He soon learns that when I stop, something uncomfortable is going to happen, so he sits right away. Now at 12 weeks, Jack sits almost immediately when I stop, but it has been a struggle getting there.
As Jack has been better at sitting, I have begun to teach him that sit means stay until told otherwise. To begin, while Jack is on sit I keep the lead in hand and I take one step in front of Jack, facing him. The first few times, he will get up. When he does this, again gently lift the lead until he sits back down. Practice going back to him, back away from him, back to him, etc. until he has mastered it from here. Next (probably a couple days later), practice taking a step to either side. Before you know it (Jack picked up rather quick on this), your dog will stay sitting.
Two things to watch out for here. One: very rarely, if ever, call your dog to you off of sit. Again this can develop a creeper (a post coming soon on this). Two: when returning to get your dog, don't walk straight to the dog, this will make him want to stand up to greet you. Walk wide of the dog beginning a small circle, then hooking or circling back up to the appropriate side to call him off sit into heel.
Please feel free to comment and ask any questions or give any requests for what you'd like to know or see. I hope to start doing videos soon and to post more pictures.
Own the Eyes
An important skill to establish early on is eye contact. A finished dog should look to you for direction whether in heel, stopped by the whistle, or receiving casting commands. Establishing eye contact can begin early on with simple daily routines. Take feeding for example. When getting ready to feed the dog (the dog should not have free access to food by the way as this could unknowingly reward unwanted behavior), hold the bowl up at your face. Naturally the dog will look at the bowl and his eyes will stumble upon yours on occasion. Be sure to capture the moment whenever his eyes meet yours; timing is everything! When his eyes meet yours, praise and give the food. All good things should come from your eyes: food, treats, bumpers, balls, etc. At an early age, hold all of these things close to your eyes before giving them to the dog.
A dog should always establish eye contact before a command is given. When beginning heel work, Jack still wasn't quite convinced of his name yet. From the sit position, I would make whatever noises I needed to (cooing and trilling my tongue usually worked best) to get Jack's attention. The second his eyes met mine, the command was given and we were off. He began to realize eye contact is a good thing. Jack is now approaching 12 weeks old and his attention span is noticeably longer. At first I would wait for the slightest glimpse of eye contact, but now I make him hold that eye contact for just a little bit longer before any commands are given.
Another thing I have just started to do this week is to make sure Jack looks up to me for direction. While doing heel work and practicing sitting to my stop, I hold Jack on sit and do not say a word. As soon as he looks up at me, I praise him and give him a treat. I will do this two or three times, heel another 10 yards or so, sit him down and repeat the exercise. Sometimes I have to sit there for about a full minute before Jack looks up at me, but he is not allowed to move off sit unless I command him, and he knows that command won't come without eye contact.
Eventually as these basic skills are mastered, you can begin by holding a treat or other reward at your eyes, then moving your arm directly outward. The dog will most likely look at your hand, but the second he looks back at you, give the treat or reward. Repeating this is another good exercise so the dog knows that watching you, not the treat, will get the desired reward.
Biting/Chew Toys
Biting
Jack does not bite me, my wife, or my 7 month old baby who can't seem to get enough of pulling Jack's face and ears. The breeder we selected did a great job of introducing the puppies to young kids and to constantly be around their face and discourage biting. Jack didn't have much of a problem when I got him, but he did bite on occasion. Whenever Jack would bite, I would just grab the scruff of his neck softly, and gently shake his head and say in a deep, growling voice "No". Jack learned very quickly that biting was not allowed in this pack.
Chew Toys
I often receive criticism for how I train Jack based on what I feel is an important principle, and what is found in Wildrose Law #4 - Don't condition in a problem that must be trained out later. I have decided to not give Jack any chew toys. Chew toys can develop hard mouth meaning once it comes time to retrieve a bumper or a bird, he may just see it as a chew toy and chew it to pieces. Chew toys are also often used for games like tug of war and meaningless retrieves (fetch). Retrieves should always have a purpose and beginning at a young age, the dog should learn to be steady before called to a retrieve. Tug of war also promotes hard mouth; the dog must bite down harder to keep what he thinks is his. Chasing may also be involved which would be an absolute disaster if your dog decided to play this game with a bird in mouth.
Jack does not bite me, my wife, or my 7 month old baby who can't seem to get enough of pulling Jack's face and ears. The breeder we selected did a great job of introducing the puppies to young kids and to constantly be around their face and discourage biting. Jack didn't have much of a problem when I got him, but he did bite on occasion. Whenever Jack would bite, I would just grab the scruff of his neck softly, and gently shake his head and say in a deep, growling voice "No". Jack learned very quickly that biting was not allowed in this pack.
Chew Toys
I often receive criticism for how I train Jack based on what I feel is an important principle, and what is found in Wildrose Law #4 - Don't condition in a problem that must be trained out later. I have decided to not give Jack any chew toys. Chew toys can develop hard mouth meaning once it comes time to retrieve a bumper or a bird, he may just see it as a chew toy and chew it to pieces. Chew toys are also often used for games like tug of war and meaningless retrieves (fetch). Retrieves should always have a purpose and beginning at a young age, the dog should learn to be steady before called to a retrieve. Tug of war also promotes hard mouth; the dog must bite down harder to keep what he thinks is his. Chasing may also be involved which would be an absolute disaster if your dog decided to play this game with a bird in mouth.
The Three D's of Steadiness
Denials
A denial is denying the dog a retrieve. Denials should be introduced early to the puppy. Jack started denials about a week after he started retrieves. As a rule of thumb, either you or another dog should pick up 50% of all bumpers/balls/birds thrown. I will often take Jack in the back yard and have him sit next to me with a lead. I will have my other dog Hazel come and sit on my other side with no lead (she is a bit more experienced). I will then toss out a bumper or tennis ball and give each dog about 2 or 3 retrieves. I will also toss out an extra 5 or 6 which I go and retrieve myself while the dogs stay put.
Delays
Ever since Jack started retrieves, I required a calm pup before I released him. At first I just waited for the first sign of calmness before I would just let him go, calling his name is a release indicator. Gradually as he has gotten more steady, I have lengthened the time he has to wait in order to earn the retrieve. I will often line up to his right and mark the bumper with my pointing hand. I then call his name and release him for the retrieve. Dogs should never go after a retrieve unless instructed to do so.
Diversions
Diversions are a bit more difficult and I have not yet incorporated them fully while training with Jack. I have introduced diversions to my dog Hazel and she seems to handle them well. Diversions are bumpers/balls/birds thrown to distract the dog while an action is being performed. For now, I place both Jack and Hazel in a sit position about 10 yards apart. I then throw a tennis ball right between them. They are expected to stay sitting and not go after the ball (this works most of the time). With Hazel, as she is bringing back a tennis ball, I'll throw another tennis ball over her head, directly in front of her, to either side, or behind me. She is supposed to stay focused on the current retrieve and bring the first ball to me before I release her for another retrieve. Sometimes she gets released to another retrieve, other times I use the diversions as denials and go and get them myself.
A denial is denying the dog a retrieve. Denials should be introduced early to the puppy. Jack started denials about a week after he started retrieves. As a rule of thumb, either you or another dog should pick up 50% of all bumpers/balls/birds thrown. I will often take Jack in the back yard and have him sit next to me with a lead. I will have my other dog Hazel come and sit on my other side with no lead (she is a bit more experienced). I will then toss out a bumper or tennis ball and give each dog about 2 or 3 retrieves. I will also toss out an extra 5 or 6 which I go and retrieve myself while the dogs stay put.
Delays
Ever since Jack started retrieves, I required a calm pup before I released him. At first I just waited for the first sign of calmness before I would just let him go, calling his name is a release indicator. Gradually as he has gotten more steady, I have lengthened the time he has to wait in order to earn the retrieve. I will often line up to his right and mark the bumper with my pointing hand. I then call his name and release him for the retrieve. Dogs should never go after a retrieve unless instructed to do so.
Diversions
Diversions are a bit more difficult and I have not yet incorporated them fully while training with Jack. I have introduced diversions to my dog Hazel and she seems to handle them well. Diversions are bumpers/balls/birds thrown to distract the dog while an action is being performed. For now, I place both Jack and Hazel in a sit position about 10 yards apart. I then throw a tennis ball right between them. They are expected to stay sitting and not go after the ball (this works most of the time). With Hazel, as she is bringing back a tennis ball, I'll throw another tennis ball over her head, directly in front of her, to either side, or behind me. She is supposed to stay focused on the current retrieve and bring the first ball to me before I release her for another retrieve. Sometimes she gets released to another retrieve, other times I use the diversions as denials and go and get them myself.
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